Hi Dan,
I have a 2.5l diesel BT50 variant that has blown an egr cooler. May not be the same fit as yours however,
Bleeding the coolant system of airlocks which seam to lodge somewhere in the system is a real problem . On mine, it shows as the heater not working and not blowing hot air. When the exhaust gases leak in the cooler, they can go into the coolant system and show just like a blown head gasket with boiling at the open radiator cap and an exhaust smell there. I had the whole top end rebuilt before the failed egr cooler was diagnosed.(not a low cost un-necessary fix).
Moving the airlocks is not easy. I use an adapted funnel which fit the radiator cap. This allows a higher head of coolant. You then run the engine until the coolant heats up until the thermostat opens. At that stage if you squeeze the top hose, this moves the airlocks and you get air bubbles rising in the funnel/radiator cap opening. Last time I did this it took 45 minutes of running until no bubbles appeared. If the heater blows hot quickly after starting a cold engine, you know you probably have no airlocks.
As you appear to have no leaks but also no gases in the radiator I would try this simple procedure prior to changing out the egr cooler. Not a cheap job.
Good luck

 

Hi Dan,
I have a 2.5l diesel BT50 variant that has blown an egr cooler. May not be the same fit as yours however,
Bleeding the coolant system of airlocks which seam to lodge somewhere in the system is a real problem . On mine, it shows as the heater not working and not blowing hot air. When the exhaust gases leak in the cooler, they can go into the coolant system and show just like a blown head gasket with boiling at the open radiator cap and an exhaust smell there. I had the whole top end rebuilt before the failed egr cooler was diagnosed.(not a low cost un-necessary fix).
Moving the airlocks is not easy. I use an adapted funnel which fit the radiator cap. This allows a higher head of coolant. You then run the engine until the coolant heats up until the thermostat opens. At that stage if you squeeze the top hose, this moves the airlocks and you get air bubbles rising in the funnel/radiator cap opening. Last time I did this it took 45 minutes of running until no bubbles appeared. If the heater blows hot quickly after starting a cold engine, you know you probably have no airlocks.
As you appear to have no leaks but also no gases in the radiator I would try this simple procedure prior to changing out the egr cooler. Not a cheap job.
Good luck

Thanks for your comment, after much faffing around it turned out to be the egr cooler which has now been replaced.

Thanks again

 

Hi All.
My brother drives a 2015 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4.
The EGR cooler siezed and the engine has picked up damage whereby the entire engine needs to be replaced. I have read a couple of reviews regarding this issue and was wondering how my brother needs to cover al costs? This is clearly a factory fault? The vehicle gave no indication that overheating was taking place? Have any of you been able to arrange a deal with you dealerships regarding the replacement of the part or even the entire engine?

 

Hi all, I have a 2015 UK wildtrak that has a long history of issues that I believe relate to the egr cooler. A couple of independent mechanics have historically diagnosed coolant loss as defective filler cap or bottle. Both have been replaced but I still lose coolant so heres my logic.

• no visible destination of coolant (no puddles!)
• no oil in the water or water in the oil (not head gasket)

As such I assume the egr cooler is leaking into the exhaust. Other symptoms

• periodic coolant loss (at least 2 litres per week)
• periodic engine cut out (as if overheating)

So, I'm banking on the egr cooler as such my question is as follows. On a 2015 wildtrak can the egr cooler be replaced without dropping the gearbox? I have no issue removing ancillary parts such as throttle bodies l, hoses and pipes but if it requires the transmission out the way or the engine lifted I will bounce it to ford! Thanks in advance Dan

I have done one in just over 4 hours had an air con machine to hand so I was able to degas and remove the ac pipe that makes the job far easier ,£65 on amazon for a new cooler and a fiddly old job. my 3 tips would be get the ac degassed if poss(not essential but helps) remove the small heat shield on the exhaust manifold, and tie a piece of string to the rubber hose to pull it through the back of the engine on reassembly & it helps if you are 7ft tall