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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, has anyone ever been curious about some of these ebay scams on the IAT resistor and things like that? Ive heard good and bad things about them so I am getting a bit curious. I decided that I would buy one of these cheap IAT sensors that say "40 hp and 30+mpg!!!". lol. Its only costing me $2.50 to get one of these resistors but im curious to how my truck will react with it.

Now all these resistors do is trick your computer into thinking that the air coming in is colder and denser. This is supposed to get the computer to curve the fuel mapping and adjust to colder air. I am thinking that it may actually help my truck's case due to the fact that since I put on the intake and exhaust it is running a bit lean. Im thinking that if it tricks my computer that its denser it will add more fuel and run at a good fuel/ air ratio.

I know you guys may think this resistor is dumb. SO DO I. I just figured I would test these myths and let you guys know what happens so we have a thread that documents these kinds of things. So, I should get it in the mail in the coming days and I will keep this hread updated with info on if it surprises me or if I wish I had bought a cheeseburger with my $2.50 instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its not going to do 5 hp even if it works right. They just post that to get dumb people to buy it. I know better to really think that, I just want to document a test of the myth. I think it was $.99 for the resistor and 1.50 for shipping. Pocket change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Racing fuel is expensive as all get out! Theres a gas station where you can get 110 octane fuel but you cant fill up your car with it. By law you have to put it in a gas can and take it away to put it in the car. $15 a gallon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Racing fuel created very high compression in the engine if you ignition system is strong enough. That junk would blow my head gaskets right out!
 

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I know for a fact that MIL Eliminators work. They are for when you remove your cats or bore them out. You splice the resistor in the O2 sensor line (the one after the cats). It tricks the computer into thinking the O2 is performing properly.

Normally, when you remove the cats, you will get a CEL that will say you have an issue with your cats. I've had mine on my truck for 5 years with no problems! CEL went right away! ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
rngrdanny22 said:
I know for a fact that MIL Eliminators work. They are for when you remove your cats or bore them out. You splice the resistor in the O2 sensor line (the one after the cats). It tricks the computer into thinking the O2 is performing properly.

Normally, when you remove the cats, you will get a CEL that will say you have an issue with your cats. I've had mine on my truck for 5 years with no problems! CEL went right away! ;D
Thats good info danny! So would that work on my truck fine you think? Where did you get it?
 

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I wouldnt recommend ditching the cats on your truck. I think my truck became alot more sluggish once I did.

You can purchase the MIL Eliminators off ebay for usually less than $10 shipped. They are made for Mustangs.
 

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I would assume you could run it with the cats still there, but your CEL wont come on if there really is something wrong with your cats...
 

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Nothing that I noticed... but my truck ran like poo with no cats and just a flowmaster... LOL
 
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