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07 ford ranger 3.0 v6
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Hey everyone so I have a ford ranger 07 3.0 v6 misfire in cylinder 6 I've changed out gas filter coil pack spark plug wires and spark plugs I had just got new valve cover gasket but haven't put them on yet I've checked all holes for leaks and still can't get rid of the misfire. Shot me your options thanks.
 

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Hey everyone so I have a ford ranger 07 3.0 v6 misfire in cylinder 6 I've changed out gas filter coil pack spark plug wires and spark plugs I had just got new valve cover gasket but haven't put them on yet I've checked all holes for leaks and still can't get rid of the misfire. Shot me your options thanks.
hey good evening from Pinellas county Florida.

I own a 2000 ford ranger xlt extended cab with your same motor, 3.0. mine just turned 62k original miles. I'm the second owner. and I bought it from a man my age. I'm 69 and and a old motor head.
I do not mean to challenge your approach for fixing your glitch, I'm sure you are smart enough to fix it.. with that said. have you taken the truck to your closet auto parts store to plug it in to their testing equipment?, In years past i could use a vacuum gage /timing light. move the distributor . a bit back and forth until my vacuum gage showed the highest I could obtain in inch pounds, you simply cant do that now. your on board computer does it for you, is the truck high mileage? over 150k?

using their free testing equipment is a much easier approach and it will narrow done the source/problem . their equipment will send a trouble code. then they check their manual for possible remedies,.. one trick I've always done is check for a vacuum leak. I would take a cheap spray bottle. fill it 2/3 water 1/3 dawn dish soap. / mist .don't soak around all connects. mist it. manifold exhaust intake ,runners fuel rail. exhaust manifold's. any thing that as a chance of exhaust or intake leak. if there is a miss ,,your onboard computer is trying to fix and its confused, there is no adjustment for timing. advance or retard. the computer does this, no distributor....

did you know if your gas cap is worn out, doesn't seal at the filler neck , it will cause something like you are trying to fix, the fuel injection systems , must be closed and remain under certain pressure built as per specs for your truck. by misting around these areas the idle at idle will change, if it does you have an intake leak. if it bubbles .exhaust leak, I put a cold air box made by k and n filters. getting rid of the factory baffled box. increased the performance. But confused the computer. I simply dis connected positive terminal, waited about ten minutes and re connected the battery cable. worked ,runs great , the filter box ,ford designed ,starves the motor of air. then I put true dual exhaust on it, wow, just wow,

I haul an enclosed trailer with either my drums or motor cycle, pulling about 2600 pounds, no big deal. my truck came from ford with 373, posi rear. did you know you can goggle your vin number , it will tell you what the truck was optioned at the factory with.. . your 3.0 like ,any gas powered motor is a pump. it must get correct amount of fuel and fire, then get rid of what it burnt [exhaust]. its nothing more than a pump. if all systems are not correct. it will do what is doing. you didn't say how it runs above idle, if its only at idle. throttle body fuel rails, injectors may be dirty /restricted. or maf sensor. I use Lucas fuel injection cleaner. it really does work. follow amounts as printed on the bottle.

I have an 07 Suzuki boulevard cruiser. its 8000 cc. 50 cubes . I put the Lucas in its tank. I don't ride it much, its fuel injected as well I bought my truck 5 plus years ago. it only had 38 k on it. now 62k. it sat more than it was used. so the gas was old, do you have fresh gas in the tank. or maybe the gas has water in it? my last vehicle is a 57 ford 2door sedan delivery. its all stock, big in line six all manual standard shift on the column. holly one barrel. I drive it maybe 3 times a month. here in Florida's high humidify fuel is colder than out side temps. the tanks can draw moisture..

sorry this is so long. have you bought a shop manual for it? Chilton or Clyde is good. best investment ,if you intend to keep the truck and not be at the mercy of a shop you don't trust. start with the basics. spark, fuel, compression. exhaust.. car/truck covers tend to draw moisture if they don't have a way to breath .
. good luck . keep in mind you are smarter than the problem. just use common sense relating to what a gas powered motor must have to run smooth and be on top of their purpose. you can e mail me if you want . [email protected].. good luck ,stay safe. Vern
 
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