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Discussion Starter #1
Just thought I would get the ball rolling in this section.

Here are a couple pics of my ext. rad are setup

This is my first design for the RA mounts/ trans cross member




You can see that the bushings are almost maxed out with less the 6 inches of droop (thats why I redsigned them)


When I remade the brackets, I gusseted the plate that the bushing goes through, and dropped the mounting point down a little to get a better caster angle and to allow for more articulation of the arm



I had to trim the RA bushing a little to tighten up in the new bracket



I extend the arms 13.5 inches with 2x2 1/4" wall tubing










and beefed up TTB drop bracket
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dyllanvenezio said:
You make all of this look easy. Which axles are on that?
A true D35 up font and a 31 spline 8.8 Exploder rear w/ disc brakes and L/s

All Gen III 4x4 Rangers came with a D35 or atleast a D35/D28 Hybrid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
dyllanvenezio said:
Did you weld all of it yourself? Is it still smooth?
Yup I sure did. Not to shabby for a 18 yr old who taught himself how to weld a couple years back.lol What do you mean by "smooth"
 

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As if you bought it for 10x the price... I am in the same boat, what kind of welder did you use. What did you buy for the lift other than shocks and springs, such as brackets?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought a set of Skyjacker 4/6" TTB brackets for D28(they have two holes for 4 or 6 inch lift), the guy threw in set of stock d28 rad arms as well. I had to trim the Pass side drop bracket to clear the d35 housing, but other than that they are a direct bolt on. I bought a set of 4" coils and shocks from a guy on TRS and used them with some homemade 2" spacers. I extended the d28 rad arms 13.5 inches.(the only difference between the d35 and d28 arms id that the d28 arms have an extra bracket to support the shock bolt). I also gusseted the crap out of the driver side drop bracket as well. I made the RA mount/trans cross member. I lifted the rear with Chevy 64" springs and ext shackles. Everything I made uses 2x2 1/4" wall box and 1/4" plate. I have been using a 220v Lincoln MIG w/.035 wire and Argon/co2 mix.
 

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Those are friggin sweet man! You ought to open yourself up a 4x4 shop!
 

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LOL that's why we're here!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BADINTEN said:
ya i love the arms you built im going to be makin some my self when i re re re due my front end but im not going to use the bushing and stud anymore im going to heims.
I almost went with heims, but they dont hold up to well to road salt and dirt. They wear to fast for a DD.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Two oil changes (around 6200 miles). It is mostly highway. It rides better than stock IMO. I need to get some new shocks up front and get my hands on a superrunner steering setup, my steering geometry off so I get a tiny bit of bump steer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
BADINTEN said:
how much lift is in the front cuz they superlift cant stress enuff that you cant use it for 6" lifts and over. they dont want anyone using it for anything over 5.5". have you ever though about maybe a sway away steering system
Made for 2"-6" kits. I have 4" coils w/ 2" spacers, but I have 4.0 supercab w/ a heavy a** bumper, so I doubt I have much more than 4.5" inches up front. I plan to run 6" skyjacker coils w/ 2" spacer. The SJ coils are soft, so I should end up right at 6".

If I get the superrunner steering setup on and it looks like it is stressed, I will put the 8" SJ pitman arm and lower the superrunner idler arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
BADINTEN said:
there is more to it than just lowering the arm bro its like the sway away style with a pivit point on the pass side also maybe you should just build your own set up all together
the super runner steering system does have a true center link, idler arm and 4 tierod ends. I was talking about lowering the idler arm ("pass side pivot" as you call it) and the pitman arm. Which would lower the the whole center link to the right height for a 8" lift.
 
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