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looks good man.
 

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Discussion Starter #322
It's been a while since I updated. I wasn't able to get it running for the last race of the season, I was so depressed!!
My father in law, Al, helped out immensely with all of the following;
One of the reasons was when I was cleaning threads in the front drive yoke I busted a tap in the threads :mad: I was able to get it out, luckily the tap was protruding enough that pulling the yoke off the front diff and with a little grinding on the tap I was able to grab the end with some pliers and turn it out through the front. But that cost me about three hours.
Once I had the engine, trans and t-case installed, I did the wiring, installed the rad, and then went to install the spark-plug wires and coil. For the life of me, I could not remember where I had put them. I wasted another 1/2 hour searching high and low for the damn parts but never did find them :mad: So I took the parts off of my exploder, glad I bought that a while back.
Also installed, with a bit of modification, an Air-raid cold air intake from my '97 f-150 that was stolen and bought back by yours truly.
Installed the fuel cell and pumps. I had to do a bit of wiring to clean up the mess I made last time I was in such a hurry. I also moved the high pressure pump so i would have room for a rad that I'm going to install in the back, just in front of the rear end. I'm going to install it flat, in between the frame rails, with an electric fan blowing downwards. I'm thinking that this will help the COG [COG=center of gravity] as well as take some weight from the front.
So when I went to start the sucker, it wouldn't :'( I pulled codes and got these;
51; ect [engine coolant temp] sensor out of range indicated/circuit open [may be because there is no water in the system yet]
63; throttle position circuit fault below minimum voltage [tried back probing but not sure I'm doing it right]
54; intake air charge temp sensor circuit open [?]
67; air conditioner clutch [not applicable]
57; neutral pressure switch [? I think I don't have it plugged in at the trans/t-case]
85;canister purge circuit failure [not installed]
95; fuel pump secondary fault [not applicable as I have low and high pressure pumps on their own circuit]

So I haven't looked at it in two weeks but am now in the fix it mode. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #324
I finally got my truck running so there should be some regular updating in the next few months as I get it ready for racing.

Richard
 

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alwaysFlOoReD said:
So I sprayed down my truck with a product from por15. It is called pre-primer. It has phosphoric acid, zinc phosphate,water and one other fairly innocuous chemical in it. I did like the directions said and sprayed and kept wet for 10 to 20 minutes. I looked at it yesterday after letting it dry for a couple of days and it looks like galvanizing that you see on fence pipe. There is a residue left that I'm supposed to hose off, I'll do that later this week. I've used something similar before on rusted metal and after wire wheeling the rust off, it turns black after being applied and drying. I'm guessing that if there is no rust [like my sand-blasted truck] that there is no reaction between the rust and product to turn black. Anywho, I'll update a little later this week.

Richard

how good is the por 15 stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter #326
There are signs of rust coming though. BUT it's supposed to be painted over so the paint would protect from rust. I "think" it's a rust convertor that converts any rust so it [the rust] doesn't come back after painting.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #329
I been doing some fixing on the way the bedsides are mounted but don't have pics, sorry. ~ 3 hours and some scrap metal.
Removed the bracing from another hood which also removed ~ 20 lbs. ~ 3 hours
I also needed to cover the top of the cage as per the rule book so I decided to use a hood that was dented. The dents were in an area that would end up being cut off so I saved a few bucks and will, hopefully, have a more stylish roof than a plain piece of metal would have provided. I removed all the bracing and the outside 1/4" from both sides and the back. I then placed the hood on the top of the cage and traced the outline and cut the hood down. After doing this I trimmed the front down to match the curve of the diameter of the bar.



I trimmed so that I would have minimal hammering before tacking;



I tacked every 3", hammered down the metal, then tacked again between those then ran ~ 3/4" welds starting in the middle of the tacks and ending on a tack.


Finished one side;



Here is where I'm at right now and plan on filling in the little holes with weld. Those holes are left from me not getting the weld to catch all of the sheet metal while running the weld puddle along the tube;



I'm sure that I'll be doing a lot better by the time I'm finished welding. I'm using my Lincoln weldpac 100 with .030 fluxcore. I started out with the lowest heat setting [d] but upped it up one [c]and moved the speed a little bit faster [from 1.5 to 1.75] and seem to be getting better results.

Richard
 

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That's a pretty good idea using an old hood. Heck, might even be a little more aerodynamic! 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Eventually I'll graft on a cab from another truck. Right now it gets me on the track quicker.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #333
I've welded in metal to cover the cut edges where I removed the cab;





I used a rib from an over head door;



It happens to fit perfectly over the vertical ribs at the back of the cab.


I got some free scrap metal from Mckee Manufacturing here in Red Deer. They are great people willing to take the time to help out unknown people looking for handouts. So when I needed to have some metal bent for the doors I gave them my business. They are into manufacturing farm equipment like manure spreaders. I'm sure anyone local will have heard of them but if not I would highly recommend them.
Any way on to the pics;

Fitting the pieces;




Tacking;


and welding;








Some butt-ugly welds but I'm still learning. At least I'm getting better at not blowing holes threw the sheet metal.
Next on the list is to get the rad hooked up. The stock one is toasted so I'm installing one from a 3.8 liter Cavalier with the electric fans. It's one I have from the scrap pile.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #335
Thanks badinten.

Some more pics of the cab metal work;



It was like I had planned my cuts in advance as everything lined up so well, the back piece ends up just touching the roll bar and is at the perfect height for the cab corner and door cuts I made months ago before I had decided exactly what I was doing lol;



The rad I was going to use has a small leak so I decided to use one I had in my scrap pile, it's from a mid '80's chev with the 3.8l engine. It has dual electric fans with temperature sensor in the rad to control fan function. Some pics;







I had cut the bottom rad support out of the donor, set it on the frame, and then used some thin gauge c-channel to support it and locked it in place;





I'm using some pvc pipe along with regular rad hose to connect the outlets, they are on the opposite sides from the stock position.



I wrapped some brass wire around the end and coverted that with pvc glue. Hopefully it all holds together with 100C degree water running threw it.



Later I want to move the rad to the back of the truck so this will be a good test. If it doesn't work I will, at least, have a guide to give to the exhaust shop so they can make me something from exhaust tubing.

On the top I cut the stock metal engine outlet and was able to piece two rad hoses together to make an almost stock looking connection....sorry, no pics of the finished hose but here are the two I used to make one;



Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #336
A few more pics....

The hoses cut to fit, including part of the metal from the original hose engine top mount;



And put together ready to go in;



I tried taking the housing apart and turn the outlet but it must be electro-welded together. I cut the three tack welds and heated it cherry red but it didn't want to come apart, so I ended up cutting it. I ran a bead around the outlet and painted before mounting it over the new thermostat, making sure the little hole of the thermostat was to the top;




connected to the rad, I made sure that there was clearance for motor movement;



looking down on top of the new hose engine mounting point;



The bottom rad hose built with white pvc potable tube. It says 450 psi @ 23C degrees burst pressure so hopefully it stands up to over 100C at 15 psi....I guess I'll see in a little while;



and installed. I did add a support at the rad end at the 45 degree elbow after the pic was taken. I used hash marks on the tube and elbows to line up the tube while gluing. I should have done the same to the top rad hose, it would have saved a little time orienting the hose while re-assembling;



Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #337
I was telling my father-in-law about installing the rad and was telling him about the wiring. I wanted to hook up the thermostatic fan controller and I didn't know about how to hook up the wiring and he says to "K.I.S.S. ..... keep it simple stupid" so I'm going to hook up the fans to the master battery controller; the fans will be on all the time there is power to the engine.
Thanks, Al.

Richard
 

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full time power for a race truck is perfect love the progress not sure of the pcv piping hope it works the exhaust tubing is good but i like the same dom or any tubing kinda like the roll bar is made of for the radiator
 

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Discussion Starter #339
Its been awhile!
I finally got the frame and cage painted. I used some rust converter to get rid of the rust before painting. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get to painting quick enough two times, and so had to do the rust conversion three, yes, three times. It does work to get rid of slight rust like I had after a couple of years of no paint.
Here's some pics of after the last time of converting rust;









I did some last minute clean up of welds and added a grab handle above the middle bar at the roof. It helped stretch the metal just enough to get rid of some wrinkles left from welding the hood/roof panel to the cage;



I pulled the rear end and gas tank and any brackets that I could and also all the wiring in the cab. I roughed up any previous paint and quick sanded all the metal. I started out with a brush but that got old within two minutes. I then grabbed a hand pump pressurized spray bottle that I usually use for brakleen and used it to spray the paint. It came out too thick but I kept on, brushing out the spray as I went. I got the back half of the truck done the first day. Day two I decided it was time to dig out the old 80 gallon compressor tank and use two small compressors to feed it and then ran a line out of the big tank to a wall mounted panel. On the panel I mounted a drain valve, pressure regulator, outlet, water filter, another outlet, oil lubricator, and finally two more outlets. My father in law came out and helped with the compressor plumbing as it's not something I've got much experience in and got me going. I have a pic but will have to upload it later. Day three I got the parts I needed to get my paint gun working after not looking at it for 15 years. Luckily I was able to find the part at C.A.P.S.: Central Alberta Paint Supply in Red Deer, Ab. Its a discontinued Binks #7 clone that I picked up 20 years ago.
Any way here is the finish pics;









It didn't turn out too bad considering that I had to bypass all the panel I install the day before due to too much pressure drop through the regulator. It seems the reg. is pooched. So all the painting was done with unfiltered air on a hot, muggy day.....lots of moisture in the air. Oh well, it's not a show truck, now is it? The paint came out looking like a satin finish, which is just fine.
I'll be re-installing everything over the next few days.
Later,

Richard
 
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