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Discussion Starter #301
sloue said:
liking the path the soup can is going . full width axle will fit nice under the new sides. adding an inch to full size front beams makes it a bolt in more or less . so i have read
Thanks.
Adding an inch to what?

Airtruksrus
Thanks. I don't think I'll be doing the hood/fender combo, it's cheaper to replace damaged parts one at a time.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD said:
Airtruksrus
Thanks. I don't think I'll be doing the hood/fender combo, it's cheaper to replace damaged parts one at a time.
The way you had it layed out, looked like how it was set up. Just have to see the rest of the rebuild.
 

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sorry ..d44 beams ,you add an inch at the pivot end s of each beam. theres a couple articles out there on it .its how it was done before the fancy new brackets. like my came about
 

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Discussion Starter #304
sloue;
If I get to it, I'll be putting 44 hubs[correct term?] on the ends of 35 beams. The research I've done says it's stronger the either one alone, plus I've got the pieces to do it.
 

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just got back on for the first time in awhile workin like crazy i think we can work something out with you always i will see what i can come up with for you
 

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alwaysFlOoReD said:
sloue;
If I get to it, I'll be putting 44 hubs[correct term?] on the ends of 35 beams. The research I've done says it's stronger the either one alone, plus I've got the pieces to do it.
gonna put on everything from the knuckles out correct? post up when ya do, id like to do it too
 

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Discussion Starter #307
I finally got the last of the roof cleaned up!! Unfortunately the race truck will be on the back burner as I will be making the house ready to sell. I want my own place where I can work on my projects instead of paying someone else mortgage and having to clean up his roof that fell in. I will put some time on it but not as much as I'd like. I'm planning to make the last race of the season.

Richard
 

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I've missed seeing your updates on this! Good luck on the house hunt!
 

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Discussion Starter #309
Well, I've done a little to the ''soup can', I got passenger seat mounts built and welded in and am working on seat-belt mounting. That's pretty much done, I just have to weld in a few brackets. Piddly ass **** but I want it done before the truck gets blasted and painted. Next will be mounting the fiberglass bed-sides.
Material was free from the scrap bin at McClevins Welding and Time spent was ~ 10 hours

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #310
Some pics;
Here you see the passenger seat mounted in place;



and the bracket I built to hold the upper portion of the seat from moving;



It's starting to come together;



A view from the back;



and a close up of the NOT finished mounting;



I'm not going to blast and paint the frame like I hoped to do, I feel that I won't get to race at all if I take the time to do that. So the truck is going to look like a work in progress for quite a while...oh well, I like go more than show anyway.

Richard
 

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I love it man! Looks great with the stepside bedsides!
 

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Discussion Starter #312
I've done a bit more to the soup can. From memory;
-mounted passenger side seat
-made brackets and mounted five point harnesses
-drivers harness is a Hooker Harness with ratcheting lap belt. I haven't tried it in the real world but it sucks you down in the seat, I don't see me floating around in the seat at all any more.
-got the bedsides mounted better but still have some fine tuning to do.

Then last weekend I got to take it all apart again!! I took it down to the bare frame and cab. I couldn't get the cab off because of the roll cage. I sure wish that I had blasted the frame previous to putting the cage on, oh well.
Rolled out of the shop and into the barn and ready to pull motor;







I had a bitch of a time getting the fuel lines apart, I spent about 2 hours trying to figure out how they came apart.











If you take a close look at the previous pictures you may be able to figure it out. There is a spring in the female end that clamps on the male ends flare. The white plastic circular tool is used to push the spring back so the male end can pull free. I was using pliers to push/clamp the tool in as far as it would go and trying to pull the two ends apart. But that also meant that both ends were clamped together....doooh. Hopefully I don't forget by the time I need to do this again.

I knew It was getting sandblasted and I wanted to keep the lines clear of dust. Sandblasting creates a LOT of fine particles. So I used what I had handy to plug the ends of the fuel lines, ear plugs, and a little masking tape to hold them from falling out. The power steering pump lines I connected together with a short chunk of hose.


And I was able to pull the motor, tranny, and t-case as one unit, I don't think I could have if the rad support was still attached.









Coming back from the blasters, trying to beat the rain clouds;



Beat the clouds, safely in the shop;



I'll be coating the bare metal with a chemical that's supposed to protect from rust. I'll report back on that later.

Richard
 

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That thing looks beastly!
 

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Discussion Starter #316
So I sprayed down my truck with a product from por15. It is called pre-primer. It has phosphoric acid, zinc phosphate,water and one other fairly innocuous chemical in it. I did like the directions said and sprayed and kept wet for 10 to 20 minutes. I looked at it yesterday after letting it dry for a couple of days and it looks like galvanizing that you see on fence pipe. There is a residue left that I'm supposed to hose off, I'll do that later this week. I've used something similar before on rusted metal and after wire wheeling the rust off, it turns black after being applied and drying. I'm guessing that if there is no rust [like my sand-blasted truck] that there is no reaction between the rust and product to turn black. Anywho, I'll update a little later this week.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #317
I also sprayed some small parts that were sand-blasted with Rust-off rust converter and those pieces turned black so there is different chemical compositions between the two products. I wish I had got the Rust-off for spraying the whole truck as I like the black better than the gray. I tried spraying a portion of the truck with the Rust-off over the other stuff, I'll see if it changes color later today.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #318
I found that the Rust-off TRIED to change the color of the previously coated body and frame but did not change the color much.
I've been having a bitch of a time with manifold bolts. There was the one that connects the exhaust tube to the manifold, it was broken and had been for a loong time. I tried drilling out the stud in order to use an easy-out, broke the easy-out. So I took the manifold off. I tried heating the bolt and then spraying with w-d40 and removing with vice grips, nope. I tried heating the surrounding area and then spraying with w-d40 and removing with vice grips, nope. I tried welding a nut to the stud and using a wrench with heat and w-d40, nope. Finally I used the cutting torch and carefully cut the insides out where I had previously driil for the easy-out. Then I used a drill to try to remove what was left of the bolt and ended up removing some of the threads on one side of the hole, dope. So now I'm the proud owner of a heli-coil kit that'll do 5 different metric bolt sizes; C$130.00. A kit for just the bolt I was fixing was C$65.00 so I splurged as I have one more broken bolt of a different size broken in the head and with my luck will be heli-coiling that hole after I'm done screwing with it.
So it seemed like I got nothing done on the soup can yesterday!!! I did buy and install another cylinder in my engine hoist as the original is leaking worse than my pecker with the clap. Total time spent was ~ 8 hours before I finally said enough.
Later,

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #319
I've been burning the candle at both ends for the last week trying to get this truck ready for Saturday. It's looking promising. I got the engine,tranny,t.c. in yesterday with the help of my friend Don. Also started on putting the wiring back in. Did all the fluids;engine, tranny, t.c., rear diff. I pressure tested the motor before putting it back in because I froze it last winter;



I used a new tire valve in the heater line;



I knew about and replaced one frost plug, then found another in the head leaking;



I'm really glad I took the time to do the pressure test!!!

In case you haven't seen a picture of me before;



Engine ready to go in;





It sure makes it easy to slide the motor in with nothing in the way;



To get to this point has been about 30 hours! Lots of little detail stuff needed doing as well as sitting and thinking :p
Anywho, later,

Richard
 

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Nice progress! Can't wait to see it running again!
 
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