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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all.
Right now I have for parts/race-truck;
1) 86 ranger ext cab 2wd 2.9 auto -good body -motor toast -rebuilt trans
2) 87 stx ranger reg cab 2.9 auto d-28/7.5 4.10 gears -motor gone
3) 90 reg cab 4.0 standard d-35 8.8 3.73 gears (roll-over) -running o-k
4) 91 reg cab 2.9 stan. d-35 8.8 unknown gears -running o-k,
5) 91 exploder 4.0 stan d-35 8.8 unknown gears -running good -rebuilt trans -(roll-over)
Various other 2wd rangers pre 90
85 b-II play toy + 3 parts b-IIs
My thinking is to keep the center of gravity as low as possible-thus no lift if possible.The stx came with a 2" lift from the factory. The 90 was in a roll-over so the frame may be bent.
So, my thinking,no lift; use the 91,swap in the 4.0 and trans from the exploder, and the 3.73 from the 90.
with lift; use the 87, swap in the 4.0 and trans from the exploder, keep the gears.
Yours thoughts?
Thanks
Richard
p.s. starting this weekend, pics to follow.

I thought I would list a running total of my time and money spent, I also posted this info in my first post for those who don't read the whole thread;
Time ~ 204 hrs
Parts;
'90 stx ranger ~ C$200
'87 stx highrider ranger [flat of beer] ~ C$45 C$245

safety related
cage - pro built C$2000 C$2,245
driving suit - new C$345 C$2,590
helmet - new C$145 C$2,735
alum. seats-used (2) C$300 C$3,035
window net - new C$50 C$3,085
fuel cell - new C$200 C$3,285
fuel cell - a/n fittings C$105 C$3,390
fuel cell - low pressure pump C$105 C$3,495
5 point harness - used C$25 C$3,520
master kill switch + elec. misc. C$75 C$3,595
50' 2/0 wire (used jumper cables-homemade) C$25 C$3,620
__________________________________________________ ____

truck related

rebuilt calipers and pads C$90 C$3,710
shocks - 6 pr used - traded for one aluminum seat (C$150) C$3,710
mig wire C$70 C$3,780
shock mounting C$50 C$3,830
grade 8 bolts, etc. C$50 C$3,880
wd-40, zip discs C$35 C$3,915
fan belt C$30 C$3,945
rad flush + fluid C$30 C$3,975
sandblasting frame C$75 C$4,050
tube 1"x1"x10' C$10 C$4,060
brake flex line C$80 C$4,170
brake hose flex line - f-150 C$20 C$4,190
brake fluid, fuel inj. cleaner, misc. C$20 C$4,210
brake hose 60" hard line, hose locks C$15 C$4,225
sway bar bushing kit C$25 C$4,250
oil pressure switch, oil filter, vacuum caps C$20 C$4,270
elec. solder,fuses, misc. elec. C$40 C$4,310
misc. hose and wire clamps C$25 C$4,335
self-etching primer C$90 C$4,425
fuel; line, filters and menders C$45 C$4,470
fire ext., air filter, bulbs C$35 C$4,505
spark plugs, wires, and MORE filters C$105 C$4,610
anti fatigue mat for seat C$15 C$4,625
wire C$5 C$4,630
It looked a whole lot neater [in columns] when I wrote it out before posting.
I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out for under C$5,000
tires; 29/8.50x15" tsl super swampers - mounted and balanced-C$500 C$5130
almost under C$5000

Richard
 

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Awesome! Can't wait to see the pics!
 

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Sounds like it will be an awesome truck!!! Pics should be great looking!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Starting on it tomorrow. Pics soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Started on it today. I'm using the 87 stx ranger.
Its being built for short course off road racing. Sooo, anyways, I got the bed off. Aprox. 2 hrs working and 3 hrs trying to find tools :mad:.
the stx comes from the factory with a 2" suspension lift and this one has a 2" body lift as well.
The body lift will be taken off for a lower center of gravity. Offers? The rear comes w/ 4.10 l/s. I wish it was open cause I can make an open into a l/s cheaper than rebuilding a l/s.
STXnSTONES; think the name is any good or too obvious? More pics----
Later, Richard
 

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good platform for a build. what i would give fore those high rider brackets. if you decide to not use them some where down the road get a hold of me ill pay top $
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea, sloue, I got lucky. I paid a flat of beer for the truck ;D Hey, I thought I would show my lack of knowledge. I haven't taken a real close look but it seems the fenders and rad support are welded to the cab.I need to know if I can get rid of some or all of the inner fender? I need to lose as much weight as I can ;D, my truck, that is. I will be cutting the floor and inner fenders out of the box as well. Door skins and all glass is going, as well as the rear portion of the cab( easier to weld in cage w/ door bars). Any other places you can think of?
Richard
 

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dont cut noten yet my freind. ;) building a cage is some thing that takes some reseach if you have never done one. a cage not built right will kill faster than if you didnt have one. no saying dont try but do some reading on how other boys are doing them. before you cut a thing you need to mount your body soild to the frame. getting rid of the rubber and replacing with somthing soild. i will drop back tonight and cont this need to flail to work now. i am up on your build just want to start you in the down the right path ;Dhttp://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rollcage.htm/[url] you cant denie they have the best info out there
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey sloue, I won't be working on it till mon., got the honey-do list for the week-end,which I have been ignoring for a while now. The guy - Chuck , that's starting/owner of the track is going to pay a pro to build the cage for me in exchange for documenting the build. It's not what you know, it's who ;D ;D ;D. I was going to keep track anyway! Here's the rules from a different track in B.C. Canada;Here they are, the new and improved Limited Lite Rules :) Have fun boys ;)
ALLOWED:

A. Frame and Body:
1. Holes can be made in the body and box for roll cage and fuel cell mounting only.

2. Bumpers may be removed and replaced by racing style bumpers as outlined in the general safety rules.
3. The hood and doors may be skinned
4. Front inner fenders may be removed.
5. Entire box floor including wheel wells and inner box sides can be removed.
6. Can use fiberglass or steel box skins.
7. Can use fiberglass front fenders.
8. The steering box mounting may be reinforced.
9. Steering quickeners are allowed.

B. Engines:
1. Engine size limited to 2999cc. Engines will be model (but not necessarily year) specific.
2. 3.0L are permitted but must be raced totally stock. If stock air box is moved, the factory air box and factory size tubing must be used.
3. 2.9L same as 3L except MSD6AL is permitted.
4. 2.8L can use any carburetor and MSD6AL is permitted.
5. 4 cylinders may use any aftermarket carburetors, intake manifold, headers, camshaft, chip and MSD6AL is permitted. Any air filter is allowed.
6. Stock factory fuel injection can be used. Any V-6 Fuel Injection must remain stock.

C. Drive Train:
1. Automatic or manual transmissions are allowed but must be model specific to vehicle. Shift kits are allowed.
2. Differential lockers or spools and gear ratios allowed.
3. Removal of E-brakes allowed.
4. Gusseting and strengthening of the differential housing allowed.
5. Larger than stock wheel studs allowed.

D. Suspension:
1. Maximum of two (2) shocks per wheel.
2. Shocks are limited to any 12” maximum stroke shock that is not end user rebuildable and does not have an external reservoir.
3. Shackles may be extended.
4. Aftermarket springs are allowed.
5. Aftermarket upper A-arms and spindles are allowed. (Stock style ball joints no heims or uniballs)
6. I-Beams may be bent to help with camber
7. A-arm style suspensions may alter the strut rod to align its pivot on the same plane as the lower control arm.
9. Fords may invert shackles
10. Toyotas may run shackle pivots on top of frame.

NOT ALLOWED:
A. Secondary suspensions.
B. Shocks cannot protrude through the hood.
C. Hole cut through hood for air cleaner.
D. Bead locks.
E. Aftermarket torque converters.
F. Relocating the steering box

Only I'm using a 4.0l instead of the 2.9 or 3.0. I will get ahold of the cage guy to find out if I get an engine cage that I can mount the fenders and hood to. Also will be moving the rad to the back along with battery.
Thanks, Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Part of the deal for getting a cage built and installed is me documenting the time and cost (which I would have done anyway).I hope its o.k. if I use this site for that ;D So here goes.I picked this truck cause it was the most suitable out of all my trucks. It's 4x4 but most people seem to build 2x4, maybe cause less frontal weight and not often needing 4x4 in the desert racing.This truck is being built for short course off road truck racing.

The truck; '87 ford ranger stx ( factory 2" suspension lift) 2.9 (gone) auto (unknown shape) front; d-28 w/ 4.10 rear; 7.5" w/ 4.10 l/s. The truck is in fairly good shape with the usual rust - most of it would get cut out anyway.
cost; a flat of beer ~ $45.00 cdn
Borrowed truck and flatdeck and 4 hrs to tow home.
cost; owe a favor
Day 1)
Unbolt gas tank fill hole. Unbolt taillights, un hook wiring from box. Remove 6 bed bolts, I had to grind off the 2 closest to the bed. realized I should spray all nuts and bolts with w-40 ::) remove box; 2 hrs
look for tools;3 :-[ hrs
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Day 2
Planning; 1/2 hr
Wire brush where box was/spray bolts w/ w-d40 ::),remove lights and grill, spray bumper bolts w/ w-d40 ::). try removing bumper bolts- the grinder is your friend ;D.remove wiring in engine bay.remove passenger seat and 3 of 4 bolts on drivers seat, more w-d40 ::) the grinder will be my friend again, if I can get at the bolt head. remove wiper motor;2 1/2 hrs
Pondering/scratching head; 1 hr
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey, sloue
I would still appreciate any insight that you have about the cage. For example, I didn't know about solid mounting the cab. I think all input is good as I want to learn how to do something and the reason WHY it's done; There's more than one way to skin a cat ( most messy) :) Also this thread hopefully inspires someone else to build a racetruck and the more info the better for anyone new to this stuff
Knowledge is good!
Richard
 

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im already building one but im doing to for fun in the desert and the state fair ya baby lol. and the reason you solid mount the cab is for strength. the rubber leads to more fex and you need it to be as ridged as possible
 

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on another note if you get rid of the 7.5 (for any kinda racing you should) can you see about sending me them gears i could so use them im running 33inch paddles on my truck
 

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solid mount body is for flex and strength but you want to make the cab ,frame, and cage as one unit seats mounting to the cage of course that way in a hard roll over the body and cage don't move in diff directions the all roll as one see what I'm saying to have the body go one way and cage anther some has to give if you don't take the rubber out the flex will lead to stress fractures in the cage to body mount and could lead to total failure of the cage then you f check this link if i can get it this time http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rollcage.htm
 
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