Ford Ranger Forums banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a fab 2015 Ranger Wildtrak. I have had it 3 years. Tail end of last year I noticed that the coolant level was low so I topped it up. Within 5 miles the Engine management warning came on along with Abs warning. Booked it into main dealer for investigation. Between this happening and arrival at main dealer was prob 20 miles. I had checked oil cap and dipstick for creamy deposits, but both looked good.
Dealer said EGR had allowed coolant into engine and recommended stripping it to see. They did the top end and said oil and water mixture found and damage to turbo.
So, turbo replaced, engine cleaned 5 oil changes and run between, no sign of metal or water in oil, running well. However after about 30 miles, the turbo blew. Back to garage, catesrophic failure of turbo. Engine oil emptied and refilled, oil changes done new turbo fitted. Returned to garage for oil change at 1000 miles, all good. 1000 miles later, turbo whining. Back to garage, now told their is aluminium in the oil and turbo is breaking down. Claims aluminium is from original issue so not their problem.
Now I am no engine expert, but to me, this sounds like aluminium from the turbo, could it come from elsewhere? Advice and opinion please!
Sorry for length of post, but it's very frustrating!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have a fab 2015 Ranger Wildtrak. I have had it 3 years. Tail end of last year I noticed that the coolant level was low so I topped it up. Within 5 miles the Engine management warning came on along with Abs warning. Booked it into main dealer for investigation. Between this happening and arrival at main dealer was prob 20 miles. I had checked oil cap and dipstick for creamy deposits, but both looked good.
Dealer said EGR had allowed coolant into engine and recommended stripping it to see. They did the top end and said oil and water mixture found and damage to turbo.
So, turbo replaced, engine cleaned 5 oil changes and run between, no sign of metal or water in oil, running well. However after about 30 miles, the turbo blew. Back to garage, catesrophic failure of turbo. Engine oil emptied and refilled, oil changes done new turbo fitted. Returned to garage for oil change at 1000 miles, all good. 1000 miles later, turbo whining. Back to garage, now told their is aluminium in the oil and turbo is breaking down. Claims aluminium is from original issue so not their problem.
Now I am no engine expert, but to me, this sounds like aluminium from the turbo, could it come from elsewhere? Advice and opinion please!
Sorry for length of post, but it's very frustrating!!!
Hi Rockette,
I have a 2007 BT50 2.5dci which has done 66,000 miles. I had an overheating problem due to low coolant, noticed it when my cab heater started to run cold. I only topped up the coolant header tank. This didn’t solve the problem. Engine was running ok, heater still not working. Engine ran hot and rad boiled over through the coolant overflow tank. This happened twice over approx 40 miles on the journey home late at night. I put it into the garage who advised the egr cooler was leaking gas etc into the coolant system. Changed out the cooler. Engine ran for a couple of weeks but the heater still wasn’t working well when the overheating problem reoccurred. Back to the garage who checked but still could’t find the fault.
At this stage, very frustrated, I started to do a lot of research online a came across similar issues.
The basic problem is that the water flow around the cabin heater under the dashboard is not brilliant especially in older vehicles. If the coolant runs low and drops below a certain level it can introduce airlocks in the system which are very difficult to dislodge or move around. If one of the moves to the egr cooler it can cause the metalwork to overheat as there is no heat transfer from the hot gases in the egr cooler to the water circulating through the egr cooler. This can cause thr egr cooler to fail allowing exhaust gases into the coolant system. Had to change the heater rad at this point.This condition shows when you run the engine without the radiator cap. Looks like the water is boiling and shows like a blown head gasket.( yes, I did a top end refurb un-necessarily)
To get rid of airlocks in the coolant system is not easy. If you fit a funnel to the open radiator, it allows for a higher head of water, as high as possible. You need to run the engine, massaging the top radiator hose, this artificially moves the coolant in the system once the thermostat has opened. You will see air bubbles appear in the water in the funnel as they move round and out through the funnel. Last time I did this it took 45 minutes before I got all the air out. You will know when it’s ok as the heater will heater up very quickly an run at full blast without getting cold. Until you get rid of the airlocks you can continue to cause damage if the engine runs hot.
Good luck.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top